How to Stop Leash Pulling in Cocker Spaniels & Other Dogs

Knowing how to stop leash pulling in your Cocker Spaniel is the difference between dreading walk time and actually looking forward to the outdoor time together. As a Cocker mom of over three decades, I’ve seen how sweet Cockers turn into determined sled dogs on a walk. I’ve even wondered if my shoulder would ever recover.

If this sounds like you, you aren’t alone. I’ve been through the dreaded pulling dog scenario many times, but there’s good news. With the proper techniques and a little patience, you can transform those chaotic walks into pleasant strolls (and it’s easier than you think).

Using a combination of my time-tested method to stop leash pulling and consistent practice, you’ll soon be enjoying peaceful walks with your furry best friend by your side.

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Why Do Cocker Spaniels Pull?

As the smallest member of the American Kennel Club’s (AKC) Sporting group, the breed was officially recognized in 1878. The name Cocker Spaniel originates from the hunting of woodcocks. The breed’s hunting instincts and natural drive to follow scents make them eager to investigate every smell, sound, or movement they encounter.

Both American and English Cocker Spaniels are energetic, intelligent, and naturally inquisitive. The very breed description includes “merry” in it, so of course, they generally approach life with tremendous enthusiasm. And let’s be honest, the combination of natural instincts + energy + learning that pulling gets them what they want sometimes equals the perfect recipe for a leash that feels more like a tow rope than a walking tool.

Smart and observant, Cocker Spaniels quickly figure out walking routines, but they may expect everything to happen on their timeline. When walks move too slowly for their active minds and bodies, pulling becomes their way of saying “let’s pick up the pace!” Without consistent training and the right equipment, pulling quickly becomes a self-rewarding habit.

How Not To Train A Dog To Stop Pulling

Before explaining what actually works to stop your dog from pulling, let’s discuss the ways you can make a bad situation even worse. This is my personal list of things never to do when training your Cocker Spaniel (or any dog) to stop pulling:

NEVER scream, yell, or get totally frustrated: Your dog senses the other end of the leash, and the only thing getting louder or annoyed does is make you look and sound foolish, not to mention the harm it does to the human-animal bond. And NEVER spank or hit your dog. EVER!
NEVER use harsh physical corrections like jerking, yanking, or “popping” the leash. Cockers, like most dogs, have sensitive necks, and these corrections, as well as choke chains or prong collars, can harm them. Here’s the reality of choke and pinch collars.
NEVER use a collar to stop a dog from pulling. Consider your Cocker’s neck with the trachea, thyroid gland, blood vessels, nerves, and vertebrae. Just one episode of pulling hard or running fast, and your dog could have severe neck damage. As the owner and moderator of Club Cocker, an engaging Facebook group, I’ve seen this happen. We’re talking about dogs with choking, difficulty swallowing, and even unexpected escape.
NEVER pull back harder. This creates an odd “tug-of-war” situation, and your dog is likely to pull harder when you pull back.
NEVER use a flexi-leash. A flexi-leash not only encourages pulling, but you have no control when your dog is 15 to 20 feet away from you. The thin cord can cause rope burns, and you and your dog can be injured. Additionally, the constantly changing leash length can be confusing for dogs. Just say no to a flexi-leash in general.
NEVER try to out-muscle your dog. This teaches them that walking means a contest of strength.
NEVER use fear-based methods. Things like spray bottles, noise makers, and cans of pennies break trust and diminish the way your Cocker feels about you. Cockers are one of the most sensitive breeds on the planet.
NEVER rush the training process. If you have a puppy, you understand that everything is a process, not something to rush. The same holds for adult dogs that are accustomed to pulling. Perhaps you adopted a Cocker or never trained your dog not to pull. It may take a few weeks to a few months (yes, months), so patience is key.

Pro Fact: Pulling comes naturally to dogs. Always use the right training equipment, which is safer for your dog and designed to train them using positive reinforcement.

Stop Leash Pulling with the Right Harness & Leash

There are thousands of harnesses that come with thousands of promises, and I’ve tried dozens of them across three Cockers and 30 years’ time. A proper harness allows for a full range of motion in the shoulders without any chafing. For Cocker Spaniels, this preserves their gait and ensures proper balance.

I spoke with Robin Bennett, Certified Professional Trainer (CPDT)-KA, who calls the Blue-9 Balance Harness her favorite harness of all time. Positive reinforcement trainers, like Bennett, use and recommend tools that benefit both the dog and the pet parent. The balance of strength, effectiveness, and simplicity is one of the many reasons she recommends it.

I discovered the Blue-9 Balance Harness during the Global Pet Expo in Orlando, Florida. Sir Alvin, my Cocker Spaniel, was fitted for the harness, and we spent the next several days walking thousands of steps with it. Sir Alvin was a puller as a puppy, but my time-tested method to stop a dog from pulling worked. I’ll explain more about that in the next section. I particularly fell in love with the harness because:

It is lightweight
It is available in a variety of colors and a reflective style
Sir Alvin took to it immediately with minimal adjustment
It allows dogs to move comfortably and safely
The six-point adjustment means a secure and comfy fit
It has multiple leash attachments (front and/or back rings to manage pulling)
The washable, soft-touch nylon is easy to clean
It is affordably priced for most budgets

Most impressive is the six-point adjustment, which ensures comfort, safety, and full freedom of movement. Despite a bit of a learning curve (video below), once you understand how to put the Blue-9 Balance Harness on, it’s easy-peasy.

Adjustment Point	What to Do	Why It Matters
Neck strap	Use the buckle-neck loop (if available) and adjust so the harness goes around the neck comfortably. The colored strap that slides over the head should lie flat.	Helps avoid slippage or discomfort over the dog’s neck/ears; makes putting harness on easier for dogs who don’t like overhead straps.
Chest strap (between front legs)	Adjust so the strap sits between the front legs without rubbing. It shouldn’t constrict the chest when the dog moves.	Prevents chafing; ensures free movement of front legs.
Girth / Under-body Straps (Both Sides)	Buckle and adjust both girth straps so there’s room for two fingers, but not so loose that it shifts when the dog moves.	Ensures the harness stays secure without restricting breathing or body expansion.
Back/Side adjustments	On Blue-9 harnesses, there are adjustment points toward the back/sides so you can fine-tune the fit around the flanks and over the dog’s back. Check that nothing rubs near armpits or back when walking/pulling.	These allow you to customize the fit for unique body shapes (such as barrel-chested or long bodies), thereby avoiding discomfort or restriction.

nce home from the show, we invested in the Blue-9 Reflective Multi-Function Leash for its versatility. You can shorten it, lengthen it, loop it around your shoulder, double-clip it (especially useful with a two-ring harness like Blue-9’s), or use different attachment points. This flexibility makes it suitable for different walking styles and training stages.

The leash comes in two sizes (Small/Medium and Medium/Large) with varying webbing widths (5/8 inch for lighter dogs and 1 inch for stronger ones). This allows you to choose something appropriate for your dog’s size and pulling strength.

Fun Fact: When NBC News did a roundup of their favorite dog harnesses, veterinarian Dr. Abel Gonzalzes recommended the Blue-9 Balance Harness as the best adjustable harness for dogs.

Step-by-Step Training to Stop Leash Pulling

I recently discovered that this is called the “be a tree method,” but I call it “Carol’s Boring Stop Pulling Method,” so feel free to call it whatever you want. With time, patience, and practice, it works.

Introduce the Harness Indoors

Before we even think about walks, I start by getting my Cockers comfortable with their harness indoors. I put the harness on during calm moments, such as when they’re relaxing in the living room or resting by me in the office. The key is making the harness a regular, no-big-deal part of their day.

I initially let them wear it for short periods, just 10 to 15 minutes, while they went about their regular indoor activities. No drama, no fuss. They learn that the harness equals comfort, not restriction. All of my Cockers have even come to see the harness as a good thing, as it means something good is about to happen.

Attach the Leash to the Harness Indoors

Once they’re comfortable wearing the harness, I clip the leash on while we’re still inside. Again, no big production. I let them drag it around (supervised, of course) or I’ll hold it loosely while they explore the house. This removes any surprise factor when we transition to actual walks.

This indoor practice is ideal for Cocker Spaniels because they’re so smart and observant. They get to figure out how the leash feels and moves without the added excitement and distractions of being outdoors.

Make Magic Happen on Walks

Here’s the “be the tree” method. It’s beautifully simple: Every single time my dog pulls, I stop moving. That’s it. I don’t yank. I don’t say “no.” I don’t negotiate or plead. I just become the most boring human on the planet and stop moving.

The moment the leash goes tight, I plant my feet and wait. And wait. And wait some more if necessary. I don’t move forward until there’s slack in that leash again.

Cocker Spaniels are problem-solvers, so they figure this out fast. When they realize that pulling gets them absolutely nowhere (literally), they start experimenting with different behaviors. The smart little wigglebutts quickly discover that a loose leash means they get to continue their walk and explore all those fascinating smells.

It’s like a lightbulb moment: “Oh! When I don’t pull, we keep moving. When I do pull, everything stops and gets really boring.”

But it isn’t instant, and it isn’t a quick fix. This is where your patience and love of dogs come into play. Forward motion happens only on a loose leash.

Bonus Tip: Sometimes I recommend changing direction before you feel the leash get tight. Quietly and in one turn of 90 to 180 degrees, tell your dog, “Let’s go.” Reward your dog for doing so with treats, praise, and other positive reinforcement. This works because following you becomes more rewarding than walking ahead and pulling. Sometimes I look like a breakdancer doing upright spins, but it works for many dogs.

Reward Your Dog With Sniffs

After 20 to 30 seconds of polite walking on a loose leash, give your Cocker Spaniel the cue “Go sniff!” and allow them 10 to 20 seconds to investigate their surroundings. When sniff time is up, use the cue “Let’s go,” and reward the first few steps back in the heel zone. This creates a little reward system where sniffing becomes the payoff for polite walking.

Eventually, when your dog can walk normally without heavy pulling, sniffing on walks should never be rushed. This is your dog’s explore-the-world time, much the way you get your news online, in the newspaper, or on television.

Pro Tips from My Experience

Start with shorter walks during training. A successful 10-minute walk is better than a frustrating 30-minute battle. There are times my spouse came looking for me because it took me 60 minutes to complete one walk due to the breaks and startups.
Pick your timing. I always start this training when I have plenty of time and patience, and never when I’m rushing to get somewhere.
Celebrate the wins. The moment the leash goes slack, I praise my Cocker Spaniels as if they’ve just won Best in Show. Oh, and positive reinforcement significantly accelerates the process.
Stay boring. No dramatic sighs, no lecturing your dog about their behavior. Just stop, wait, and resume when the leash loosens. Those Cocker eyes staring back, as if they think you are bonkers, is all part of the master plan.

This method has worked with every single one of my Cockers, from the most stubborn to the most eager to please. It respects their intelligence while providing them with clear, consistent feedback on what gets them what they want: forward motion and new adventures.

Daily Practice Routine for Better Walks

Like all good things, practice makes perfect. Set aside 5 to 10 minutes each day just for training walks. Keep the session short, structured, and distraction-free at first. Clip on your dog’s Blue-9 Balance Harness and leash, then:

Start indoors or in your yard. Let your dog succeed in a calm space before adding big distractions.
Reward position. Each time your dog walks by your side with a loose leash, praise and treat.
Be a tree. If they pull, stop immediately. Don’t yank back—just wait. When they return or loosen the leash, step forward again.
Add life rewards. After 20 to 30 seconds of nice walking, release them with “Go sniff!” so they learn polite walking gets them what they want.
Build up gradually. Move training to short walks in your neighborhood, then gradually increase the distance as you improve.

Over time, these daily mini-sessions teach your Cocker Spaniel that pulling never works, but calm, loose-leash walking always pays off.

Why Blue-9 Makes Dog Training Easier

Aside from the form and function of a proper harness and leash, Blue-9 provides tutorials, sizing charts, fit guides, videos, etc. If dogs are poorly fitted or owners don’t use the front clip vs the back clip appropriately, even good gear won’t help. Dog trainers appreciate that this harness provides good support, allowing people to get set up correctly.

Features like buckle-neck loops let you avoid pulling a harness over a dog’s head, which some Cocker Spaniels dislike or find stressful. Because the Blue-9 Balance Harness doesn’t cut across or restrict the shoulders, dogs can move more naturally, which means fewer frustrations or resistance.

Here’s an easy-to-follow video for fitting your dog for the Blue-9 Balance Harness. It’s super easy once you get the hang of it, I promise.

How to fit dog to stop pulling with Blue-9 Harness Balance

Where to Get The Blue-9 Balance Harness and Leash

The best place to get the Blue-9 Balance Harness and leash is directly from Blue-9, where I purchase products for my dogs.

Use code FIDOSE20 at checkout for an additional 20 percent off. It is also available from Chewy and Amazon, which can be found linked below.

Shop on Blue-9

Shop on Amazon

Shop on Chewy

Use code FIDOSE20 at checkout for an additional 20 percent off at Blue-9’s website.

If you’d like to further train your dog indoors and have fun doing it, consider reading:

Our Experience with the Blue-9 Propel

How the Blue-9 KLIMB Transformed My Cocker Spaniels

FAQs

What if my dog ignores treats on walks?

Start in quieter spots; use better rewards (chicken, cheese, freeze-dried). Do a pre-walk sniffari for 3 to 5 minutes to take the edge off.

How long does it take to stop leash pulling in a Cocker Spaniel?

Most Cockers begin to show improvement within 2 to 3 weeks of consistent training, but full mastery can take 6 to 8 weeks. The keyword here is “consistent,” so if you’re diligent about stopping every single time they pull, you’ll see faster results. Remember, Cockers are intelligent and will test boundaries, so patience is crucial during those first few weeks.

What if my Cocker just sits down or lies down when I stop moving?

This is actually a good sign (and I’ve been there, done that)! It means they’re thinking about the situation instead of just forging ahead. Wait it out, and don’t coax, bribe, or pull them forward. The moment they stand up and create slack in the leash, praise them and start walking again. Some of my Cockers have tried this “protest sit” before figuring out the game.

My adult Cocker has always pulled, so is it too late to train them?

Absolutely not! I’ve successfully trained Cocker Spaniels well into their senior years. Older dogs might take a bit longer to unlearn ingrained habits, but their maturity often works in your favor, as they’re usually less easily distracted than puppies. The method works the same regardless of age; you just need extra patience in the beginning.

What if I’m in a hurry and don’t have time to stop every time they pull?

This is where many people sabotage their own training. If you’re in a hurry, either skip the walk or opt for a different route where pulling is less likely. Every time you let pulling slide “just this once,” you’re teaching your Cocker that persistence pays off. It’s better to have shorter, consistent training walks than longer walks that reinforce bad habits.

Should I use treats for the “be the tree” method?

I use both praise and forward movement as the primary rewards, as that’s what your Cocker actually wants anyway. However, you can carry treats to reward particularly good moments, such as when they choose to look at you instead of being pulled toward a distraction. Just don’t rely on treats as bribes to get them to stop pulling in the moment.

My Cocker walks perfectly with me but pulls like crazy with other family members. Why?

Smart Cockers quickly learn that different people have different rules. If you’re consistent about stopping but your spouse lets them pull, your dog learns to behave differently with each person. Everyone in the household needs to use the same method consistently, or you’ll have a selectively well-behaved dog. My spouse and I trained our dogs to walk nicely on a leash together, so it was a lifelong win-win-win!